Know what system you're checking
Most double-cab bakkies sold in SA use a part-time 4x4 system with a transfer case offering 2H (rear-wheel drive, normal driving), 4H (four-wheel drive, high range, for gravel or slippery tar), and 4L (four-wheel drive, low range, for serious off-road or steep low-speed work), plus a locking rear differential on most models. Some newer models add electronic all-wheel-drive modes on top of this. Confirm which system the specific bakkite in front of you has before assuming it matches another year or trim of the same model.
Testing the transfer case
If it's safe and legal to do where you're viewing the car (a quiet gravel area, not public tar at speed), ask to engage 4H while moving slowly and listen for the shift. It should engage cleanly with at most a light clunk. Grinding, a harsh bang, or the selector refusing to engage at all points at a worn transfer case or a linkage problem. Don't attempt to engage 4L or the diff lock on tarmac — these systems can bind and cause drivetrain damage or loss of control if used on a high-traction surface, so only test them on loose ground if you go ahead with a longer test at all.
Checking the differential lock
Most bakkies with a locking rear diff have a dash light that illuminates when it's engaged and confirms lock. Test that the light comes on when you engage it, and if you have access to a loose-surface area, that the vehicle behaves noticeably differently (both rear wheels driving together rather than one able to spin independently). A diff lock that's never engaged in years of ownership isn't necessarily broken, but it's untested — worth confirming it actually works rather than assuming it does because the light comes on.
A bakkie that's done beach driving (a common SA use case, especially KZN and Western Cape coastal towns) has had its underbody exposed to a lot more salt and sand than one used purely for tar-road commuting. Ask directly about beach use, and check the underbody more carefully on any bakkie where the answer is yes.
Underneath: CV joints, prop shaft, and 4x4-specific oils
- CV joint clicking — a clicking or knocking noise specifically when turning tightly at low speed, most noticeable in a car park, points at a worn front CV joint.
- Prop shaft and U-joints — check for excessive play by hand where accessible, and listen for vibration at speed that wasn't there at idle.
- Transfer case and differential oil — separate service items from engine oil, often on a longer interval and frequently forgotten. Ask specifically whether these have ever been changed, not just "has the car been serviced."
Transfer case housings, diff housings, and suspension mounting points on a well-used 4x4 bakkie are worth checking for rust and corrosion, especially on a vehicle that's seen beach or coastal use. See our practical upgrades guide for what genuinely improves an older bakkie's underside condition.
A 4x4 badge doesn't mean a working 4x4 system
Most buyers check the engine and interior of a bakkie thoroughly and barely touch the actual 4x4 hardware. A clean transfer case engagement, a confirmed working diff lock, and no CV joint clicking are worth fifteen minutes of your viewing — especially on a vehicle you're buying specifically for its off-road capability.
Frequently asked questions
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