The 30-second version
- Check pad thickness through the wheel spokes with a torch — compare friction material to the metal backing.
- Grinding means metal-on-metal (pads gone, discs likely affected too) — urgent. Squealing is often just a wear-indicator warning.
- Brake fluid should be changed on a time-based schedule (commonly every 2 years) regardless of distance driven — check the service history.
- A soft or spongy pedal is a genuine safety concern, not a minor quirk — get it checked.
- During the test drive, brake firmly and check the car pulls straight, without pulsing through the pedal or steering wheel.
A brake check takes a few minutes and needs no special tools beyond a torch — and it's one of the highest-value checks you can do on a used car, because brake problems range from a cheap pad swap to a genuinely dangerous fault, and the difference isn't always obvious just from driving the car briefly around the block.
What to check without removing a wheel
Visual brake checklist
- Pad thickness — visible through most wheel spokes with a torch; compare the remaining friction material against the metal backing plate.
- Disc surface condition — look for deep grooves, scoring, or an obvious lip/ridge on the outer edge, which indicates significant wear.
- Brake fluid level and colour — usually visible in a reservoir under the bonnet; fluid should be relatively clear, not dark brown or black.
- Handbrake operation — should hold the car firmly on a slope without excessive lever/pedal travel.
- Any warning lights — a dashboard brake or ABS warning light on and staying on is worth investigating before you buy, not after.
What the sounds actually mean
| What you hear/feel | Likely meaning |
|---|---|
| High-pitched squeal when braking | Often a built-in wear indicator — pads getting low, not yet urgent but budget for it soon |
| Metallic grinding when braking | Pads likely worn through to metal — urgent, discs are probably affected too |
| Pulsing through the pedal or steering wheel | Often a warped disc, especially under hard/sustained braking |
| Car pulls to one side when braking | Uneven wear, a sticking caliper, or a more serious fault — worth a proper diagnosis |
| Soft or spongy pedal | Possible air/moisture in the fluid or worn components — a genuine safety concern |
Brake fluid: the check people skip
Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time — this happens regardless of how much or little the car is driven, which is why it's replaced on a time-based schedule (commonly every two years) rather than a distance-based one. Moisture-contaminated fluid has a lower boiling point, which can affect braking performance under hard or sustained use, and it can corrode internal brake components over time. Check the service history specifically for brake fluid changes — it's an easy item to overlook, and a car with otherwise excellent service records can still be overdue on this specific item.
On the test drive
- Find a safe, empty stretch of road and brake firmly (not an emergency stop) from a moderate speed.
- Confirm the car stops in a straight line without pulling to either side.
- Feel for any pulsing or vibration through the pedal or steering wheel.
- Listen for any grinding, squealing or unusual noise during braking.
- Test the handbrake holds the car on an incline without excessive travel.
What it costs to fix in South Africa
Brake pad replacement is one of the more affordable common repairs, with cost varying by vehicle size and pad quality (budget vs OEM). Disc replacement costs more, and needing both pads and discs together — common once wear has gone too far — costs meaningfully more than pads alone. Brake fluid flush/replacement is a relatively low-cost service item. Get an actual quote from a local workshop for your specific vehicle before relying on general figures, since prices vary by brand, parts availability and labour rates.
Common mistakes
- Only listening for grinding and missing the earlier squeal warning that pads are getting low.
- Not checking brake fluid change history, assuming a good general service record covers it.
- Testing braking gently on a short test drive and missing a pulsing disc that only shows under firmer braking.
- Ignoring a soft pedal as "just how the car feels" instead of getting it properly checked.
Frequently asked questions
Checking a used car properly?
The Underbody Inspection Guide covers brakes, suspension, exhaust and chassis — the checks that need a proper look, not a glance.
Get the Underbody Inspection Guide — R75 →This guide is general information for South African motorists, not a substitute for a qualified mechanical inspection. Brake wear rates and repair costs vary by vehicle, driving style and workshop. If in doubt, have a qualified mechanic inspect the brakes before you buy.
The RSA Vehicle Guide inspection system covers 60 checks across exterior, engine bay, interior, underbody, test drive and documents — each with red flags, SA repair costs and walk-away triggers.
Get the Complete Inspection Guide Bundle — R299 →