Understanding NaTIS Vehicle Status Codes — New, Used, Rebuilt, and Write-Off

The five NaTIS life-cycle status codes

These codes come from the National Traffic Information System (NaTIS) and are recorded on a vehicle's registration certificate. They're used industry-wide by insurers, banks and dealers to describe a vehicle's history at a glance.

Code 1 — New

A brand-new vehicle, registered and licensed for the first time after leaving the manufacturer, delivered by a dealer to its first owner. It keeps Code 1 status until ownership transfers for the first time.

Code 2 — Used

The standard status for the vast majority of used cars in South Africa. As soon as a vehicle changes hands for the first time, it becomes Code 2 — regardless of age. Code 2 simply means "used," with no accident write-off history. This is what you want to see on most used-car purchases.

Code 3 — Built-up / Rebuilt

A Code 3 vehicle was a Code 1 or Code 2 vehicle that was involved in an incident significant enough to be declared "permanently unfit for use" — meaning structural damage requiring substantial rebuilding. It was then repaired, passed a roadworthy test, and re-registered. Critically: once a vehicle is Code 3, it stays Code 3 forever. It can never revert to Code 2, no matter how good the rebuild is.

Code 3A — Parts only

Assigned to vehicles suitable for spare parts only. A Code 3A vehicle cannot be rebuilt or re-registered as a roadworthy vehicle again.

Code 4 — Demolished

The vehicle was deregistered as permanently demolished because the damage was irreparable and no major components could safely be reused. Once a vehicle is Code 4, by law it cannot be registered again, and its parts cannot legally be used to build or repair another vehicle.

Where to find the code

The status code appears on the vehicle's NaTIS registration certificate (the RC1 document) and on the roadworthy certificate. Always ask to see the actual NaTIS papers — not just a photocopy of a roadworthy certificate, which tells you less about the vehicle's full history.

You can also cross-check a vehicle through the South African Insurance Association's VIN Lookup system (vinlookupsa.co.za), which flags Code 2, 3, 3A and 4 status based on insurance industry records.

Is a Code 3 car automatically a bad buy?

No — but it needs to be priced and inspected accordingly. The honest answer is that Code 3 quality varies enormously. A vehicle repaired by a reputable panel shop, with full documentation of the damage and repair, and a proper roadworthy sign-off, can be a perfectly sound car — usually priced meaningfully below an equivalent Code 2, which is fair given the history. The risk sits with undocumented or backyard rebuilds, where poor structural repair, hidden flood damage, or a rushed roadworthy pass can mask real safety problems.

If you're considering a Code 3 vehicle:

• Ask for the original assessor's damage report and the repair invoice or documentation, if the seller has them.
• Get an independent structural inspection — a DEKRA or similar accredited inspection is worth the R500–R900 here more than almost anywhere else.
• Check panel gaps, paint consistency and chassis rails closely — see our full VIN and structural check guide.
• Negotiate the price down to reflect the history — Code 3 vehicles typically sell for noticeably less than an equivalent Code 2, and that discount should be real, not token.

How this connects to financing and insurance

Some insurers charge higher premiums for Code 3 vehicles, and some decline comprehensive cover altogether. Some banks are reluctant to finance Code 3 or Code 3A vehicles, or will only do so on adjusted terms. Confirm both — insurance and finance — before you commit to buying a Code 3 vehicle, not after you've paid a deposit.